We are learning about the oldest part of Wrocław

Data aktualizacji: 2016-10-18

We start the trip around Wrocław at the monument of John XXIII, which was placed here in 1968 and is one of the city’s symbols. Pope John XXIII was the one who acknowledged a new order after World War II – Polish church administration on the western and northern lands.

The route of the trip leads us next to the former castle’s St Martin Chapel (kaplica św. Marcina), originating from 12th century. Being situated in close proximity to the castle of Wrocław princes, it was rebuilt many times. In the 20s of the 20th century, it was a meeting place during Polish church service for Members of the Union of Poles in Germany (Związek Polaków w Niemczech) with the „Rodło Emblem”.

Ostrów Tumski

Along the trip’s route, one comes across the magnificent Świętokrzyskie collegiate church, which was built at the end of the 14th century. The unique, two-storey St Bartholomew and St Cross Church (kościół p.w. św. Bartłomieja i św. Krzyża), in 19th century, was called the Polish church. In front of the church, there is the figure of St John of Nepomuk, chiselled by J.J. Urbański in 1732.

Ul. Katedralna leads us to Cathedral of St. John Baptist (katedra p.w. św. Jana Chrzciciela). On the way, one passes by Renaissance tenement houses, while at no. 11 is the former Suffragan’s Palace (Pałac Sufraganów) (currently, a seat of the archbishop of Wrocław diocese) and the former Palace of Wrocław Bishops (Pałac Biskupów wrocławskich) (today, the seat of the Faculty of the Papal Higher Seminary (Papieskie Wyższe Seminarium Duchowne)).

It is worth visiting the recreated „Bishops’ gardens” („ogrody biskupie”) situated at the Oder River. We enter the cathedral through a magnificent porch built with Roman and Renaissance architectural details. The beginnings of this building date back to the middle of the 10th century. The magnificent, present shape of the cathedral comes from the 14th century. The spring of 1945 brought about the destruction of the cathedral; however, the efforts of architects and the host restored its former glamour. Today, in the cathedral, we can admire a magnificent pulpit and carvings chiselled by J.J. Urbański, a cabinet altar coming from the school of Veit Stoss, the miraculous painting of Our Lady and wonderful stained glass created in compliance with a design by Krystyna and Stanisław Pękalscy. From the eastern part, the cathedral adheres to the Baroque St Elisabeth Chapel (kaplica św. Elżbiety) and Corpus Christi Chapel (kaplica Bożego Ciała) and the Gothic Lady Chapel (kaplica mariacka) with sarcophagus of Bishop Preczlaw of Pogarell. One can admire a magnificent panorama of Wrocław from the cathedral’s tower.

After leaving the cathedral, one can visit the oldest church in Wrocław - St Giles Church (kościół p.w. św. Idziego), and the Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne), which possesses a wonderful collection; it is the oldest shrine in Wrocław with an Egyptian mummy, Etruscan amphora and a collection of Silesian art.

One can now relax among the flowers and greenery of the Botanical Garden of the University of Wrocław (Uniwersytet Wrocławski), a magnificent enclave of nature created in 1811. Here, admirers of nature are also tempted by the collection of the Museum of Nature (Muzeum Przyrodnicze), with an original skeleton of a whale.

We then move on in the direction of Sand Island (Wyspa Piaskowa), next to St Peter and St Paul Church (kościół św. Piotra i Pawła), and we cross the Tumski Bridge (Most Tumski). We stand in front of a giant Gothic building of the Holy Virgin Mary Church (kościół p.w. Najświętszej Marii Panny).

Boulevards Oder

The road now leads along the bank of the Oder River: along P. Włostowica Boulevard (bulwar P. Włostowica) and S. Kulczyński Boulevard (bulwar S. Kulczyńskiego). We learn about the Oder islands on which Wrocław was built over 1,000 years ago. We pass over little bridges and footbridges to Słodowa Island (Wyspa Słodowa) and arrive at Mill Island (Wyspa Młyńska) with the oldest, over 600 year old, "Maria" mill. We pass through Mill Bridges (Mosty Młyńskie) and we return to the Sand Island (Wyspa Piaskowa) and visit the Holy Virgin Mary Church (kościół Najświętszej Marii Panny) with a votive painting of Our Lady Victorious (obraz Matki Bożej Zwycięskiej). This painting came a long way from Marianopol, Wołyń, to Wrocław. In the chapel adhering to the church, there is a ministry for the handicapped and the only nativity open the whole year round in the city.

Now, we move on in a southerly direction, next to the University Library “On the Sand” (Biblioteka Uniwersytecka “Na Piasku”) and St Cyril, Methodius and Ann Orthodox Church (cerkiew p.w. św. Cyryla, Metodego i Anny). After passing by the Sand Bridge (Most Piaskowy), we move in a westerly direction, along X. Dunikowskiego Boulevard (Bulwar X. Dunikowskiego), next to which there is the Monument to Those Murdered along the Eastern Borderlands (pomnik ku czci pomordowanych na Kresach Wschodnich). Passing next to the buildings of the Academy of Fine Arts (Akademia Sztuk Pięknych), we arrive at the viewing platform of a former defence stronghold, today called the Polish Hill (Wzgórze Polskie). From this place, we can admire a magnificent panorama of Ostrów Tumski and the Sand Island (Wyspa Piaskowa). At the foot of the hill, Gondola Bay (Zatoka Gondoli), the remains of the former city's moat and next to it - the National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) and Panorama of the Battle of Racławice (Panorama Racławicka) Rotunda, moved from Lviv to Wrocław in 1946 and opened for visitors in 1985. Next to the rotunda is the monument to the Constitution of 3 May (pomnik Konstytucji 3 Maja) and Monument to the Victims of the Katyń Massacre (Pomnik Ofiar Zbrodni Katyńskiej). A stroll through J. Słowackiego Park (Park im. J. Słowackiego) will lead us to the J. Słowacki monument (pomnik J. Słowackiego) and two items worth seeing, unique on the scale of the country: the Museum of Architecture (Muzeum Architektury) and the Museum of the Post Office and Telecommunications (Muzeum Poczty i Telekomunikacji).

From al. J. Słowackiego, we head in a westerly direction. In front of us is the massive block of St Adalbert Church (kościół p.w. św. Wojciecha) with the Baroque Blessed Czeslaw Chapel (kaplica bł. Czesława) – a Dominican, founder of Silesian province of the Dominican Order, defender of Wrocław against the Mongol invasion in 1241, the city’s patron.

Curious Nanker Square

The route of our walk now leads along ul. Piaskowa, next to plac Nowy Targ, one of the oldest markets in Wrocław, to ul. J.E. Purkyniego and along ul. W. Kraińskiego. Next to fragments of preserved defence walls and the only defence bastille, we reach the Market Hall (Hala Targowa). The building is from 1907 and has an interesting reinforced concrete construction supported on parabolic arches. Through ul. Świętego Ducha, we enter “Prince Promontory” (“Cypel Książęcy”), a small area situated at the left bank of the Oder River, owned by the princes of Wrocław, who in the 13th century, founded numerous monasteries and a new ducal castle.

Here, next to today’s pl. bp. Nankiera, one can visit St Jacob Church (kościół p.w. św. Jakuba), built before the Mongol invasion (today, St Vincent Church (kościół św. Wincentego)). It was supposed to be a necropolis for Wrocław Piasts, but only the body of Prince Henry II the Pious was put here after his defeat near to Legnica. Today, this is the location of the cathedral of the Greek Catholic church. Right next to it, there is the former Convent of Poor Clares (currently, the Convent of Ursulines), funded by the Duchess Ann, the widow of Henry II the Pious, with the Mausoleum of Wrocław Piasts (Mauzoleum Piastów Wrocławskich) and a magnificent panel of the sarcophagus of the last Piast ruler of the Wrocław duchy – Henry VI. This is a place worth seeing.

Through the narrow Ossolińscy Nook (zaułek im. Ossolińskich), leading between the buildings of the Convent of Ursulines and the National Establishment Library of Ossolińcy (Biblioteka Zakładu Narodowego im. Ossolińskich), we reach ul. Grodzka. The collection of Ossolińscy came to Wrocław from Lviv in 1946 and was placed in the former Convent of Knights of the Cross with the Red Star. Since 1811, it had served as the seat for the St Matthias high school (gimnazjum p.w. św. Macieja), attended, among others, by Jan Dzierżoń and Józef Elsner. Today, the collection of the Ossolineum Library (Biblioteka Ossolineum) belongs to the largest in the country, and apart from a rich bibliotheca of old prints, manuscripts and Polish literature, it includes graphics, miniatures, bookplates, maps and numismatic items.

Through a little square next to the Pharmacy Faculty of the Medical Academy (Akademia Medyczna), we move on in the direction of the former Jesuit college, today the main building of the University of Wrocław. On our way, we pass by the Baroque Holy Name of Jesus Church (kościół p.w. Najświętszego Imienia Jezus), possessing magnificent frescos by F.A. Scheffler and a Pietà being a copy of the Vatican sculpture by Michelangelo. Next to the church, there is the gatehouse of the former college and the entrance to the administrative rooms of the University and a former pharmacy (currently, a cosy University club with a magnificent fresco). We pass by the Tsar Gate (Brama Cesarska) and a statue of the „Fencer” („Szermierz”), created in 1904 in compliance with a design by H. Lederer, and the main entrance, richly decorated with a balcony portal, where we enter the main building of the University of Wrocław. The scissor staircase is decorated with magnificent frescos by F.A. Scheffler from 1734, being an apotheosis of the Silesian lands. On the 1st floor, there is the most representative University room – the Baroque Leopold Hall (Aula Leopoldyńska). Enchanting with it splendour, rich sculptures, mouldings and trompe l’oeil, there are works by F.J. Mangoldt (sculpture), J.Ch. Handke (frescos), I.A. Provisore (mouldings). After leaving the Leopold Hall (Aula Leopoldyńska), we can go to the Mathematical Tower (Wieża Matematyczna), from where one can admire a magnificent panorama of Wrocław.

Before leaving the University, one must go through so-called „rector’s corridor” (korytarz rektorski), where memorials remind one of the surnames of Wrocław Nobel Prize Winners, professors of the University of Lviv (Uniwersytet Lwowski) murdered in 1941 and former rectors and heads of the Wojciech Cybulski and Władysław Nehring’s Department of Slavic Languages (Katedra Języków Słowiańskich Wojciecha Cybulskiego i Władysława Nehringa).

On the ground floor, it is worth visiting Oratorium Marianum – a former chapel room, in 19th century being a Musical Room (Sala Muzyczna), where Franz Liszt, Henryk Wieniawski and many others gave their concerts.

One must not omit the room on the other side of the vestibule – the Roman Longshamps de Berier room (sala im. Romana Longshamps de Berier), where one can admire an exhibition presenting 300 years of history (1702–2002) of the Jesuitical College (Kolegium Jezuickie) and of the University.

After leaving the building of the University through the square, where sculptures presenting four seasons are places, we move along ul. Więzienna next to the 14th century city prison with a very interesting rectangular yard (today, the Institute of Ethnology (Instytut Etnologii) of the Polish Academy of Sciences (PAN), and we reach ul. Kotlarska.

What's new on the Rynek?

After crossing ul. Odrzańska, we go into ul. Malarska, turn left in ul. Kiełbaśnicza and then left again in ul. Jatki. Here, we can admire a splendid group of meat stalls established in 14th century. Here, one would have been able to buy more inferior types of meat, usually goat meat and poultry. At the entrance, we will see a monument to slaughter animals, created as a result of an initiative of the City Council in the 90s of the 20th century. We can see here: a goat, a piglet, a duck, a goose and a rooster standing a bit higher and supervising the entire farm. Today, Jatki is a small gallery of Wrocław artists and shops with artistic items. Next, we walk along ul. Odrzańska in a northerly direction. On the right is the large St. Elisabeth Minor Basilica (bazylika p.w. św. Elżbiety). This is one of the parish churches of the medieval city. Restored after fires in the middle of the 60s of 20th century, it has a magnificent Gothic interior with gravestones and epitaphs of Wrocław patricians. 365 stairs lead to the 91-metre-high church tower. From the viewing terrace, one can admire yet another panorama of the city. In front of the church is a monument to D. Bonhoeffer – a Protestant theologian and anti-fascist, killed in a concentration camp in 1945. The former cemetery next to the church was closed from the streets of Odrzańska and św. Mikołaja with a group of Gothic tenement houses belonging to altarists - a secular brotherhood of minders of altars in the St Elisabeth Church (kościół św. Elżbiety). Up to the present, only the following tenement houses survived: the smaller „Hansel” („Jaś”), also called the Chalcographer’s House (Domek Miedziorytnika), where the artist Eugeniusz Get Stankiewicz has his studio, and the larger „Gretel” („Małgosia”), being the seat of the Wroclaw Enthusiasts Society (Towarzystwo Miłośników Wrocławia). Both tenement houses are joined with an arcaded arch with a Latin inscription: Mors Ianua Vitae (Death is the gate of life).

Along ul. św. Mikołaja, we move on in a westerly direction and reach a broad, two-war, so-called small ring road – ul. Nowy Świat. After crossing the crossroads, we turn right, and next to new buildings, we reach the former armoury. The construction of this Renaissance building started in 1459. This is the oldest building of this type in this part of Europe. Today, there are two branches of the City Museum (Muzeum Miejskie): the Military Museum (Muzeum Militariów) and the Archaeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne). It is worth staying here for a while and seeing the interior, collection and magnificent yard.

The Four Denominations District

Next, we walk along ul. św. Mikołaja in a westerly direction. On the right, there is the Nativity of Saint Mary Orthodox Church (Sobór Narodzenia Przenajświętszej Bogarodzicy), formerly St Barbara Church (kościół św. Barbary) and today the cathedral of the Orthodox Wrocław and Szczecin diocese.

Along ul. św. Antoniego, through the gate (on the right), we enter a yard where the White Stork Synagogue (Synagoga „Pod Białym Bocianem”) was built in the years 1827–1828.

Through the Heroes of the pl. Bohaterów Getta, we enter ul. Krupnicza. On the left, the neo-Gothic building of the University Library (Biblioteka Uniwersytecka) – we now walk along ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego in an easterly direction. On the right, we pass by the Divine Providence Church (kościół Opatrzności Bożej), formerly the court church and currently the seat of the Wrocław bishopric of the Protestant-Augsbourg Church.

We then pass by the former Royal Palace (Pałac Królewski, so-called “Fryderycjański”); the exhibition rooms of the City Museum (Muzeum Miejskie) are currently located here. We turn right into the narrow ul. św. Doroty, leading in a southerly direction, and we reach St Stanislas, St Wenceslas and St Dorothy Church (kościół p.w. św. Stanisława, Wacława i Doroty). This magnificent Gothic temple is fascinating for its grandeur and Baroque equipment from the beginning of the 18th century. It is worth seeing.

Now, we walk along ul. Świdnicka, and on the right, we pass by the building of „Monopol”, the oldest department store in Wrocław, built in the years 1891–1892. In front of us, we see a building of the Lower Silesian Opera (Opera Dolnośląska), whose beginnings date back to the 1st half of the 19th century. The building was established in accordance with a design by K.F. Langhans, and it was many times rebuilt. On 8 September 1945, at this opera, the first opera performance after the war – „Halka” by Stanisław Moniuszko, took place.

We pass by the Opera building, and once again we reach the Old City Promenade (Promenada Staromiejska). In the distance, among the greenery, there is a monument to the Victims of Stalinism (pomnik Ofiar Stalinizmu), which was unveiled in September 1989. On the other part of the street, one can see the Gothic top of the Corpus Christi Church (kościół p.w. Bożego Ciała). This is the only building left of the monastery of the Order of Saint John, who ran a hospital here. Next to the church, there is the small Classicistic building of a guardhouse established at the beginning of the 18th century.

We walk along ul. Świdnicka and reach the crossroads with ul. Podwale. In front of us is the “Renoma” Department Store, established at the end of the 20s of the 20th century with enormous, for that time, commercial space, and the “Podwale” Department Store, established in 1897.

We cross the crossroads and, while moving in an easterly direction, we pass by an automatic weather report service (showing current weather conditions), and next, we take a stroll through the Nicolas Copernicus Park (park im. M. Kopernika) and reach the building of the Puppet Theatre (Teatr Lalek) (a former merchants’ club), established at the end of the 19th century.

We turn left, cross Plac Teatralny and return to ul. Świdnicka. Through an underground passage under ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego, we walk in the direction of the Market Square. Just behind the stairs, on the right, there is the monument of the “Dwarf” (pomnik “Krasnala”), placed here in memory of the movement of the Orange Alternative (Pomarańczowa Alternatywa). We walk along the promenade of ul. Świdnicka and reach the Market Square.

In the foreground, we can see the magnificent façade of the eastern part of the City Hall, with a unique, tracered and ribbed top as well as Renaissance bays in the southern part. In front of the City Hall is a symbol of medieval law: the reconstruction of a stone pillory from 1492. This part of the Market Square is called the Green Cane (Zielona Trzcina); it is the place where the judgements of the court – city bench were announced and executed.

Next to the „Feniks” Department Store, we turn into ul. Kurzy Targ and reach ul. Szewska. In front of us is the magnificent, extremely damaged during warfare, Maria Magdalene Church (kościół p.w. św. Marii Magdaleny), currently the cathedral of the Polish Catholic Church (Kościół Polskokatolicki), a place of wonderful concerts given during the Festival of Oratorio-Cantata Music (Festiwal Oratoryjno-Kantatowy Wratislavia Cantans). It is worth sightseeing inside and seeing the remains of former equipment and to walk around the church, along the walls and to see very interesting epitaphs and commemorative sculptures. From the side of the hotel „Maria Magdalena”, we can admire a Roman portal built in here in 1526.

Next, we walk along ul. Łaciarska and reach ul. Wita Stwosza. We turn left, and after approximately 200 metres, we will reach the Market Square. Just on the left, we are welcomed by the „Pod Złotym Psem” tenement house.

We now return to the pillory, and we enter the southern part of the Market Square. Here, we admire the magnificent, richly carved façade of the City Hall. It is worth entering one of the oldest beer-pubs in Europe – “Piwnica Świdnicka”, and then stopping for a while next to the monument to Aleksander Fredro (pomnik Aleksandra Fredry). This monument came to Wrocław from Lviv in 1956 and took its place in front of the City Hall. The inside of the City Hall is worth sightseeing, as there is an exhibition of the collection of the City Museum, and, what is more, magnificent periodical exhibitions of European works of art are organised here. This part of the Market Square is called the “Golden Goblets” (“Złote Puchary”) after the numerous, wonderful wine bars and restaurants. Moreover, in the old days, people sold fish here. Before the entrance to the City Hall, there is a mosaic made of cobblestones presenting Wrocław’s coat of arms.

Our road leads us to the Gate of Seven Wheels (Brama Siedmiu Kół), and after walking through it, we enter ul. Psie Budy. This narrow street, reconstructed in full, reflects the atmosphere of the medieval city wonderfully. A short stroll along this street will free us from the commotion of the city.

We reach ul. Ruska – in the old days, this was the location of numerous inns, where merchants coming from the West used to stay, and later, it was the location of famous department stores and textile industry manufacturing plants. Today, this is a street with banks and expensive shops. The route now leads under arcades, and we reach Salt Square (plac Solny) again. Here, we are tempted by the restaurants and pubs. We walk along ul. Rzeźnicza, and after approximately 200 metres, we reach ul. św. Mikołaja. We turn right and once again, we are at the Rynek.

Here, we end our trip around the oldest part of Wrocław.

Author: Bronisław Zathey

Zdjecie Redakcja www.wroclaw.pl

Redakcja www.wroclaw.pl